Foragers' Diary - Part Two

I mentioned in my last foragers’ diary that foraged ingredients were making their way into top end restaurants.  Well nothing is currently trendier than samphire (Salicornia europea).



Samphire, the name is believed to be a corruption of the French herbe de Saint-Pierre, grows all round the coasts of Northern Europe, and St Peter is the patron saint of fishermen. This succulent native plant has a number of alternative names including sea asparagus and glasswort.  From the middle ages until the nineteenth century it was used in the manufacture of glass and soap as a source of soda (sodium carbonate).

Samphire has been eaten as a vegetable for centuries.  You can harvest samphire all through the summer months from June to September.  It can be eaten raw in salads where the stems have crunch and a pleasantly salty flavour, or steamed, where it resembles young spinach.  It was also commonly pickled in vinegar.  In Britain it is usually served as an accompaniment to fish I imagine because of its maritime association.

Samphire growing on a tidal estuary in Suffolk

The Suffolk coast is serrated by a number of broad tidal estuaries which produce wonderful salt marshes, the ideal habitat for samphire to grow quite naturally.  Fortunately one such estuary lies only about two miles from my home and this quiet spot is a perfect location to pick handfuls of fresh samphire.

The stems which are emerald green, reach about 10cm.  It’s a fairly messy business squelching around on the black mud, but if you’re lucky you can wash it off in the sea somewhere nearby.

Once you get it home you will need to pick it over, discarding any roots and any woody bits. I normally lose about half of the total volume in this process.  After that simply wash it well to get rid of any grit and sand, drop the samphire into a large pan of fresh boiling water, you won’t need to add salt.  Let it cook for three to four minutes. Drain it, season it with pepper, toss in butter or olive oil and lemon juice, and serve at once. 

One claim, to which I cannot personally attest, it is supposed to be a natural carminative!